How to Spend a Weekend in Naples: Sun, Salt, and Sfogliatelle

Discover how to spend a weekend in Naples! From pizza pilgrimages to enchanting sights, enjoy a few days in this southern Italian city that you'll never forget.

Street art in Naples' Spanish Quarter. Photo by Emily Fata.

There are places you visit and then there are places that grab you by the heart, swirl you around in a whirlwind of beauty, chaos, charm, and carbs, and then leave you at the train station on a Sunday evening, your nose a little sunburnt and a lot in love.

Naples, you maddening, magical, marinara-scented minx, you got me good!

If you're wondering how to spend a weekend in Naples, Italy, let me take you along for the ride. This story is for the senses, from late-night pizza pilgrimages to capricious Pulcinelli tossing salt in your face. Come for the views, stay for the charisma, and don’t you dare leave without touching at least one enchanted skull.

First Impressions of How to Spend a Weekend in Naples

We arrived late Friday evening, dragging weekend bags down cobbled lanes. The area around Napoli Centrale had a certain...grittiness. Not scary, just gritty in the way all major train stations tend to be after dark. I wasn’t exactly clutching my pearls, but I probably wouldn’t have gone gallivanting solo through the side alleys either.

Still, Naples greeted us with warm night air, zero drama, and dialects flying faster than our ears could catch. We took the metro to Municipio, dropped our bags in a charming little loft-style vacation rental, and followed the scent of our first love of the weekend: pizza.

A Pizza Pilgrimage to Gusto Marigliano

Our rental hosts sent us to Gusto Marigliano Pizza, bless their carb-loving souls. I ordered the Tronchetto Ripieno; imagine a calzone went on a beach holiday and got a glow-up. Fried dough wrapped around mozzarella, sweet datterino tomatoes, lemon oil, rocket pesto, and parmesan leaves. It usually comes with bresaola, but I opted out. The dough was airy and divine, and I was full after half of it (but I kept going because…well, because I was finally eating pizza in Naples).

To accompany our pizza feast, the sommelier recommended a sparkling wine called La Matta (translation: ‘The Crazy One.’ Fitting.)

Stuffed and slightly tipsy, we strolled through the city like dreamy tourists. The Castel Nuovo loomed like a silent giant, the Piazza del Plebiscito stretched wide and regal, and the basilica of San Francesco di Paola looked like it had stepped out of a Roman daydream.

We wandered down to the Lungomare. The sea shimmered under a deep navy sky, Capri twinkled in the distance, and Mount Vesuvius sat quietly, which I appreciated. Did you know that some people live on that volcano? They're definitely way braver than me.

City Sightseeing: Buses, Blue Skies, and Brain Breaks

A view uphill while touring on City Sightseeing's Line B. Photo by Emily Fata.

The next morning began like every good morning in Naples should: with a velvety cappuccino and a buondí pastry that I still dream about. It was filled with cream, delicately sweet, and the soft, airy dough gave way to a delicious centre that melted on my tongue. That single bite might have changed my taste preferences forever (and I’m only slightly exaggerating).

Fuelled by caffeine and sugar, my favourite combination and state of being, we made our way to the nearest stop for the City Sightseeing Hop-On Hop-Off bus. It’s one of those ultra-touristy things that are popular for a reason; you can see so much of a city in a limited time. In Naples, it was a brilliant decision for us! With limited time and so much ground to cover, the bus gave us an easy way to see both sweeping coastal vistas and tucked-away neighbourhoods without the stress of navigating local transit or braving Neapolitan traffic in a rental vehicle (the very thought of driving in that makes me want to puke from anxiety).

We started with Blue Line B, the panoramic coastal route. This line hugged the curve of the Gulf of Naples, winding through the elegant neighbourhoods of Mergellina and Posillipo before circling Parco Virgiliano. From the upper level of the open-top bus, we were treated to uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean shimmering beneath the morning sun. Villas with lemon trees peeking over their walls, waves crashing against rocky coves, and Vesuvius looming in the distance. Every frame looked like a Renaissance painting brought to life. Even if we hadn’t hopped off once, the ride alone was worth it.

Mount Vesuvius looming over the stunning coast of Naples. Photo by Emily Fata.

Next, we transferred to the Red Line A, which took us deep into the city’s storied heart. We passed through the lively district of Sanità, home to layers of history and vibrant street life. The route continued past the lush grounds of Capodimonte and skirted the mysterious Catacombs of San Gennaro, which I would have happily descended into to visit, if I had enough time on our otherwise sun-drenched day.

Each seat on our bus had headphones and a multilingual audio guide. I switched to English to give my overheated brain a break from processing Italian. Meanwhile, my friends listened in their native Italian. 

The tour was informative without being dry, peppered with just enough anecdotes to clarify the city’s complex, chaotic beauty. Plus, if you want to go on more tours with City Sightseeing (for example, visiting the archeological site of Pompeii), you can get an additional 10% off with your original bus ticket!

Retail Therapy and Culinary Adventures

Inside Galleria Umberto I. Photo by Emily Fata.

Back in the city centre, we popped into Galleria Umberto I, a glorious 19th-century arcade with high vaulted glass ceilings and ornate mosaic floors. Obviously, I spun around the centre looking for the depiction of the zodiac sign Virgo, only to point out, “Hey! There’s mine!”

While there, I also fell in love with a yellow handbag at one of the little shops. I reasoned with myself for thirty minutes before making the purchase, as one does on holiday. It came with a gold chain I can add onto it to sling it over my shoulder, as well as a red and blue patterned silk scarf tied around the handle, so this was persuasive enough for me. 

From here, we headed to Pizzeria al 22, tucked along the ever-bustling Via Pignasecca. Ironically, none of us ordered pizza here; I opted for a melanzane parmigiana (eggplant parmesan that was to die for), and my friends had a classic Neapolitan cheese-and-potato pasta and grilled fish, respectively. Delicious, filling, and reasonably priced is always a win in my books.

Heartstrings and Street Art in the Spanish Quarter

The Quartieri Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarter, is the heartbeat of Naples. Narrow streets strung with laundry and red hearts, each printed with sweet nothings in the Neapolitan dialect—romantic, poetic, slightly chaotic. It reminded me of how romantic these people are, a trait that can make a Canadian girl like me go weak at the knees (Lord help me, ha ha).

"I'm drunk on you." Photo by Emily Fata.

We climbed toward the famous gigantic murals of Diego Maradona and Isis, passing souvenir shops, gelaterias, and curious onlookers. At the top, we paused in awe at the massive mural of Maradona, whose face is painted on a local woman’s shutters. I was told that whenever this poor woman opens them for fresh air, tourists boo her until she closes them again. Naples does not play about their football gods, and they seemingly quite literally worship this late calciatore.

Returning to Via Toledo, we encountered a Pulcinella, Naples’ mischievous, masked trickster. He tossed salt at us, yelling “Sciò! Sciò!”, a protective chant against the evil eye (which roughly translates to us saying “Shoo! Shoo!” in English to make something go away).

That said, salt, in Naples, is serious business. It cleanses bad luck, particularly malocchio (evil eye). The Pulcinella declared we were now safe from all future heartbreaks, and if that’s true, I owe him a bottle of La Matta.

Our new Pulcinella friend.

From here, we descended into the Toledo metro station, which deserves its own moment of reverence. With dramatic blue mosaics, cascading lights, and ancient ruins displayed behind glass, it’s no wonder Toledo Station is ranked among the most beautiful in Europe. Little archaeological exhibits, design features, and daylight pouring through the oculus? Chef’s kiss.

The Duomo and the Surrounding Area

We took the metro to Duomo Station and visited the Cathedral of Naples (Duomo di San Gennaro). It’s a mash-up of Gothic grandeur and Roman bones, but the highlight was the massive mural of Saint Januarius outside that was painted by local street artist Jorit Agoch.

Inside, the cathedral holds a vial of the saint’s blood that is said to liquefy on three specific dates. If it doesn’t, Naples might want to check its emergency preparedness kits.

Bringing myself good luck! Photo by Marica Caloiero.

Post-cathedral, we returned to the art of souvenir hunting. I bought a tambourine hand-painted with Pulcinella playing by the sea. My friends and I exchanged curnicielli—those little red horns meant to ward off bad luck. As tradition dictates, you must receive it as a gift, not buy it for yourself. So, of course, we sneakily bought them for each other and had a dramatic exchange, complete with a ritualistic poke to the left hand.

Before heading to dinner, we passed Chiesa di Santa Luciella, where three skulls stood outside. We rubbed the tops, another bit of Naples’ charming superstition for bringing good fortune. People once adopted skulls, believing them to grant wishes. I don’t know if it worked, but my limoncello later that night was divine, so I’m calling it a win.

Just a short way ahead, you’ll find the statue of the bust of Pulcinella, where you should rub his nose. You guessed it—doing so is a tradition believed to bring good luck and laughter, so you won’t want to pass this opportunity up, either!

Back to the Sea: Dinner at Antonio & Antonio

Our final evening meal took us back to the Lungomare, to a seaside spot called Antonio & Antonio. The pizza was, again, spectacular. I had the Bocconcina, loaded with buffalo mozzarella, parmesan, and basil on a perfect doughy base. Street musicians played around us, the sea twinkled, and Vesuvius loomed quietly like a sleepy grandparent.

After eating, we took a long, digestive walk along the sea, chatting and people watching as we strolled leisurely back to the rental.

On the walk back, we caught the tail end of Eurovision. Like true Italians, we cheered loudly, side-eyed the geopolitical absurdities (why the hell is non-European so-called Israel allowed to compete?!), and rooted for Austria once our country tanked. Politics aside, it felt like the perfect end to a very European day…especially because Israel ended up losing in the end.

The coast of Naples at night. Photo by Emily Fata.

Sandwiches, Souvenirs, and a Soft Goodbye

Sunday morning began with another cappuccino and a flaky, chocolate-filled sfogliatella—the kind of pastry that’s reason enough to move countries. We wandered through Via Toledo once more, stopping at Gambrinus café to admire its ornate interior and soak up the morning sun with iced teas in hand.

For lunch, we stopped at a panineria called ‘Con Mollica o Senza?’—a sandwich shop that asks if you want the crumb (mollica) in or out. I got two veggie options: one for lunch and one for the train ride home, and both were divine. We decided to dine at the restaurant, as there was a small seating area on the lower level.

One more sfogliatella for the road. Photo by Emily Fata.

Before catching my train back to Calabria, we grabbed a final round of sfogliatelle and stood outside the station, sipping our drinks and people-watching.

All in All

So, should you spend a weekend in Naples?

Absolutely. Go for the pizza, the sea, the chaos, the dialect, the lucky skulls, the superstitions, and the wildly passionate energy of a city that’s lived a thousand lives. Naples doesn’t try to impress you. She doesn’t need to. She is what she is: unfiltered, warm, loud, loving, and steeped in stories.

If you’re the kind of traveller who wants to feel a place in your bones, who loves discovering a city through its rituals, flavours, and characters, then this is your sign. Pack your stretchy pants and let your curiosity run wild.

---

#Europe #Italy #Campania #Naples #guidedtour #food #landmark #weekendgetaway #sponsored